Sewing Cosplays for Beginners

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Fabrics

What fabrics use is super important. If you're using a pattern, picking the wrong fabric can your costume looking weird. On top of that you want to think of how heavy the fabric is or the color and shine. Each of these is important to think about. This page will help guide you on things to think about as you make a costume.

This page will not cover all of the fabrics, but it will give you an idea on what are the most common and popular to use as well as what you may find them used for.

Before you begin a cosplay, but after it's planned out, you want to pick your fabrics. It's important that you get the right one. As mention: coloring, style, and look of the fabric cut out on your body is important. To help you decide (while in early phase) you may want to use a per-made pattern. I'll cover more on patterns later, but on the back of your pattern will tell you recommend fabrics and how much you'll want. Use these as a guide while you are learning.

Once you're experienced enough you'll feel more confident in adventuring out. I've made my own pattern pieces using materials that is not recommended, but because I knew how they looked I was prepared to adjust the pattern as needed.

There may be times when you can't find the fabric in the color you want. Don't worry. Fabrics can be dyed and you can find dye even in your local supermarket. Remember to read the label, not all dyes work on all fabrics.

Here are some videos to help you pick out fabrics.

What you need to know before buying fabric
How to buy Fabric by Koumori no Hime
Cosplay on a Budget: Fabric by Ginny Di
How to Pick Fabric at the store
How to read a bolt of fabric by Koumori no Hime
How to buy fabric at Joanns by Cosplayfabrics.com

How to cut fabric by Koumori no Hime
Washing Fabric by Koumori no Hime
How to Dye fabric  

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Brocade

Brocades are a heavy woven fabric with beautiful designs on it. You'll find yourself using this frequently within your first couple of years in cosplay. This fabric is common in historical costumes. Here are the stats for this fabric.

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Used for: Historical Costumes, Jackets, vest, dresses, pants, and skirts.
Weight: Heavy
Sewing Tips: Use pinking sears when trimming
Pre-Shrink Type: Dry-Clean
Needle: 70/10

Canvas

Another heavy fabric that you will use as a form of stiffener to help your costume stay up a bit in spots.

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Used for: Stiffener, corsets, tote bags
Weight: Heavy
Preshrink: Both (Wash to soften otherwise Dry-Clean)
Needle: 100/16

Chiffon

Chiffon is a light-weight, flowy, and silky material. The material also can be sheer and is soft. When cutting this fabric it will fray easily.

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Common uses: Tops, Dresses, sleeves, overtops, collars
Weight: Light
Preshrink: None
Needle: 60/8 or 65/9

Sewing with Chiffon
Hemming Chiffon  

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Cotton

Cotton will be the most common fabric that you use. You'll find yourself hoarding scraps of common colors like Black, blue, red, grey, and white. If you have a large piece of cotton, keep it. Unless you need more for a costume, you'll find that you'll be using that cotton for little pieces like collars, cuffs, bows, and other small compontents.

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Used for: Everything, but coats.
Weight: Light
Preshrink: Wash
Needle: 70/10 or 80/12

Cotton by Koumori no Hime
Cotton Info

Faux/Fake Fur

While real fur is used in clothing, few people like to see animals killed for clothing Faux is a popular alterative. While faux fur is a bit pricey, it is cheaper than the real thing.

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Common Usage: Trim, jacket
Type: Medium to Heavy
Sewing Tip: If you cut fur with scissors, fur will fly. Instead turn it to it's backside and use a small blade to slowly cut it. So put a tarp down and then a cutting board to cut on. The tarp can be used later for more fur projects or camping.
Needle: 80/12 for flexible backing fur and 90/14 for stiffer stuff.
Foot: Use a presser foot with top tension.

Dying Fake Fur
Sewing with Fake Fur by Koumori no Hime

Faux Leather or Pleather

There are to types of Faux Leather. One is non-stretch and other stretches.

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Used for: Pants, Skirts, Jackets
Preshrink: Take a sample and run it through a machine. If it's skipping threading, wash it.
Needle: 75/11 for stretch, and 90/14 non stretch.
Presser foot: Teflon or Roller foot

 

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Faux Suede

Like faux leather, faux suede is a cheaper version of a more costly product.

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Used for: Accessories, skirts, jackets, pants, shirts
Wash: To make softer
Weight: Medium or Heavy
Needle: 75/11, 70/10 for lightweight or 80/12 for heavy.

Felt

Felt is a material you won't be using for making the body of the garment, but you'll totally be using for some of the decals. It's handy to have a few sheets laying around and you can take what you need and store the rest.

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Used for: Appliques, props, stuffed toys
Wash: Not needed if it's not on the body of the costume.
Weight: Light
Needle: 10/12

Felt by Koumori no Hime

Flannel

Flannel is one of those fabrics that you can use a lot for. Both as an other garment, inner garment, or accessory.

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Used for: PJs, lining, appliques, shirts, blankets
Weight: Light
Wash: Yes
Needle: 80/12

Flannel by Koumori no Hime  

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Fleece

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Used for: Making Patches and appliques, sweatshirts, Accessories, Jackets
Wash: No-need, do not Dry-Clean
Type: Medium
Needle: 70/10, 80/12, 75/11

Fleece by Koumori no Hime

Knits

Knits is a large group of fabrics and this part will feature several different common types of knits, but I'll primarily focus on one type.

Here's the list of knit types: Double knits, Lycra knits, Scuba knits, Single knits, and Sweater Knits. More likely than not you'll be working with double knits.

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Used For: Jackets, pants, cardigans, dresses, skirts, tops
Weight: Light
Wash: Yes, buy a little extra for shrink.
Needle: 75/11

Lace

Lace can add some flare to an outfit, and double if the characters is wearing a formal outfit. Lace can be delicate so be careful while cutting it.

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Used for: silhouettes or small decal parts.
Weight: Light
Wash: Yes
Needle: 75/11 or 70/10

 

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Linen

Linen is something you'll play with every so often and you're more likely to touch it when you're doing historical costumes. Linen is also a suiting material so it's common for dress pants and blazers.

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Used for: Loose shirts, pants, boxy jackets and dresses.
Weight: Medium
Wash: Yes, but iron first and after.
Needle: 70/10 for lighter linen or 80/12 for other weights.

Linen Fabric 101

Rayon Jersey

You probably won't start out using this, but you'll find that this fabric will be good for certain projects were you want to be able to move around more. You'll probably find that some of your work out clothing is made of this.

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Used for: Pants, dresses
Wash: Dry Clearer or steam Iron
Weight: Light
Needle: 75/11

Satin

Satin is one of those fabrics that becomes the evil in the costume world. Satin shines on one side and is difficult to work with, but you'll find that you need it for a lot of pieces.

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Used for: Blouses, dresses, bridal gowns.
Wash: Not needed
Weight: Light to medium
Needle: 70/10

Satin by Koumori no Hime
Casa Collection by Koumori no Hime  

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Silk

Silk is another fabric that as you become more and more into completion cosplay or into historical costuming, you'll be buying. Silk comes in many varieties and I'll be focusing on the most common types. Silk is also a pretty penny so it's not the cheapest.

The varieties that silk come in include China Silk, Silk Dupioni, silk gazar, silk noil, silk organza, Sandwashed Silk, Silk Shantung, Thai silk, silk tussah, and silk tweed.

The varieties you'll find you'll be using.

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Name: Silk Dupioni
Use for: flat pants, jackets, blouses, fitted dresses, straight skits, and vest.
Wash: Dry-Clean
Weight: Medium
Needle: 70/10

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Name: Silk Organza
Use: Blouse
Wash: Yes
Weight: Light
Needle: 60/8 or 65/9

Silk

Taffeta

Another fabric that you'll often use if you are going to historical costuming.

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Use: Skirts, dresses
Wash: Not needed
Weight: Light
Needle: 70/10

Tulle and Net

Tulle and Net is something that is another necessary evil fabric. You'll both love what it does, but hate having to sew with it.

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Use: Underlying over and under skirts.
Wash: Nope
Weight: Light
Needle: 70/10

Tulle by Koumori no Hime  

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Upholstery

Yes, I am saying that using fabric normally used to make furniture is going to be something you'll use for costume making. Down in our info box I'll have more details.

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Use: Furniture (props), corsets, historical clothing, vest, jackets.
Wash: Yes, buy extra for shrink
Weight: Heavy
Needle: 90/14 or 100/16

Velvet

Velvet is a soft fabric and does cost a pretty penny, but not hard to find for a decent price.

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Used for: Dresses, Cloaks/Capes, pants, skirts, vest, shirts
Wash: Dry-cleaned, once garment is completed.
Weight: Medium
Needle: 70/10, 75/11

Vinyl

Vinyl is also another fabric normally for furniture, however I find myself always having some around to do some type of project.

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Used for: Belts, fake-leather pieces in a costume
Wash: None
Weight: Medium
Needles: 70/10 for thin vinyl, 40/16 for thicker

Sewing with vinyl  

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Wool

Wool is another one that you see a lot of varieties in. This varieties include:
Wool Boucle, Wool Challis, Wool Crepe, Wool Double Cloth, Wool Gauze, Wool Jersey, Wool Melton, and Woolens or Worsteds.

Wool is a common fabric used in Historical costumes or for cold weather items.

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Wool Challis
Used for: Skirts, dresses, Shirts, robes
Weight: Medium
Wash: Steam Iron
Needle: 80/12

Quote:

Wool Crepe
Used for: pants, skirts, jackets, dresses
Wash: Dry-Cleaner
weight: medium
Needle: 80/12

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Wool Jersey
Use: Tops, dresses, pants, skirts
Wash: steam
Weight: Medium
Needle: 75/11

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Woolens & Worsteds
Used for: Jackets, skirts, dresses, pants
Weight: Medium
Wash: dry clean
Needle: 80/12

 

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Muslin

Muslin is a type of fabric that is often used for making mock-ups of costumes and pieces. Muslin is cheaper than some fabrics, this allows a cheap option for mock-ups.

Muslin, while cheap, is not a popular to use in costumes, do to the lack of ability to be able to be washed. Instead it is usually stored for similar products. Muslin is still sometime required for a costume piece and is usually for historical costumes.  

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Interfacing

Interfacing is used to stiffen a part of the garment. You'll often find interfacing with jackets and collars.

There are different types of interfacing and sometimes interfacing can be a fabric. You're sewing pattern will tell you more about which one to pick. Each interfacing will come with instructions. If you aren't getting enough interfacing to get all the instructions (it's wrapped around it), you can ask your local craft store to give you all of it.

How to Use Interfacing  

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Further Resources

Fabric Savy by Sandra Betzina  

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WIP  

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WIP  

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WIP