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 Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 7:06 am
Fabrics What fabrics use is super important. If you're using a pattern, picking the wrong fabric can your costume looking weird. On top of that you want to think of how heavy the fabric is or the color and shine. Each of these is important to think about. This page will help guide you on things to think about as you make a costume. This page will not cover all of the fabrics, but it will give you an idea on what are the most common and popular to use as well as what you may find them used for. Before you begin a cosplay, but after it's planned out, you want to pick your fabrics. It's important that you get the right one. As mention: coloring, style, and look of the fabric cut out on your body is important. To help you decide (while in early phase) you may want to use a per-made pattern. I'll cover more on patterns later, but on the back of your pattern will tell you recommend fabrics and how much you'll want. Use these as a guide while you are learning. Once you're experienced enough you'll feel more confident in adventuring out. I've made my own pattern pieces using materials that is not recommended, but because I knew how they looked I was prepared to adjust the pattern as needed. There may be times when you can't find the fabric in the color you want. Don't worry. Fabrics can be dyed and you can find dye even in your local supermarket. Remember to read the label, not all dyes work on all fabrics. Here are some videos to help you pick out fabrics. What you need to know before buying fabricHow to buy Fabric by Koumori no HimeCosplay on a Budget: Fabric by Ginny DiHow to Pick Fabric at the storeHow to read a bolt of fabric by Koumori no HimeHow to buy fabric at Joanns by Cosplayfabrics.comHow to cut fabric by Koumori no HimeWashing Fabric by Koumori no HimeHow to Dye fabric
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Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 2:27 pm
Brocade Brocades are a heavy woven fabric with beautiful designs on it. You'll find yourself using this frequently within your first couple of years in cosplay. This fabric is common in historical costumes. Here are the stats for this fabric. Quote: Used for: Historical Costumes, Jackets, vest, dresses, pants, and skirts. Weight: Heavy Sewing Tips: Use pinking sears when trimming Pre-Shrink Type: Dry-Clean Needle: 70/10 Canvas Another heavy fabric that you will use as a form of stiffener to help your costume stay up a bit in spots. Quote: Used for: Stiffener, corsets, tote bags Weight: Heavy Preshrink: Both (Wash to soften otherwise Dry-Clean) Needle: 100/16 Chiffon Chiffon is a light-weight, flowy, and silky material. The material also can be sheer and is soft. When cutting this fabric it will fray easily. Quote: Common uses: Tops, Dresses, sleeves, overtops, collars Weight: Light Preshrink: None Needle: 60/8 or 65/9
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 6:59 am
Cotton Cotton will be the most common fabric that you use. You'll find yourself hoarding scraps of common colors like Black, blue, red, grey, and white. If you have a large piece of cotton, keep it. Unless you need more for a costume, you'll find that you'll be using that cotton for little pieces like collars, cuffs, bows, and other small compontents. Quote: Used for: Everything, but coats. Weight: Light Preshrink: Wash Needle: 70/10 or 80/12 Faux/Fake Fur While real fur is used in clothing, few people like to see animals killed for clothing Faux is a popular alterative. While faux fur is a bit pricey, it is cheaper than the real thing. Quote: Common Usage: Trim, jacket Type: Medium to Heavy Sewing Tip: If you cut fur with scissors, fur will fly. Instead turn it to it's backside and use a small blade to slowly cut it. So put a tarp down and then a cutting board to cut on. The tarp can be used later for more fur projects or camping. Needle: 80/12 for flexible backing fur and 90/14 for stiffer stuff. Foot: Use a presser foot with top tension. Faux Leather or Pleather There are to types of Faux Leather. One is non-stretch and other stretches. Quote: Used for: Pants, Skirts, Jackets Preshrink: Take a sample and run it through a machine. If it's skipping threading, wash it. Needle: 75/11 for stretch, and 90/14 non stretch. Presser foot: Teflon or Roller foot
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:01 am
Faux Suede Like faux leather, faux suede is a cheaper version of a more costly product. Quote: Used for: Accessories, skirts, jackets, pants, shirts Wash: To make softer Weight: Medium or Heavy Needle: 75/11, 70/10 for lightweight or 80/12 for heavy. Felt Felt is a material you won't be using for making the body of the garment, but you'll totally be using for some of the decals. It's handy to have a few sheets laying around and you can take what you need and store the rest. Quote: Used for: Appliques, props, stuffed toys Wash: Not needed if it's not on the body of the costume. Weight: Light Needle: 10/12 Flannel Flannel is one of those fabrics that you can use a lot for. Both as an other garment, inner garment, or accessory. Quote: Used for: PJs, lining, appliques, shirts, blankets Weight: Light Wash: Yes Needle: 80/12
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:05 am
Fleece Quote: Used for: Making Patches and appliques, sweatshirts, Accessories, Jackets Wash: No-need, do not Dry-Clean Type: Medium Needle: 70/10, 80/12, 75/11 Knits Knits is a large group of fabrics and this part will feature several different common types of knits, but I'll primarily focus on one type. Here's the list of knit types: Double knits, Lycra knits, Scuba knits, Single knits, and Sweater Knits. More likely than not you'll be working with double knits. Quote: Used For: Jackets, pants, cardigans, dresses, skirts, tops Weight: Light Wash: Yes, buy a little extra for shrink. Needle: 75/11 Lace Lace can add some flare to an outfit, and double if the characters is wearing a formal outfit. Lace can be delicate so be careful while cutting it. Quote: Used for: silhouettes or small decal parts. Weight: Light Wash: Yes Needle: 75/11 or 70/10
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:08 am
Linen Linen is something you'll play with every so often and you're more likely to touch it when you're doing historical costumes. Linen is also a suiting material so it's common for dress pants and blazers. Quote: Used for: Loose shirts, pants, boxy jackets and dresses. Weight: Medium Wash: Yes, but iron first and after. Needle: 70/10 for lighter linen or 80/12 for other weights. Rayon Jersey You probably won't start out using this, but you'll find that this fabric will be good for certain projects were you want to be able to move around more. You'll probably find that some of your work out clothing is made of this. Quote: Used for: Pants, dresses Wash: Dry Clearer or steam Iron Weight: Light Needle: 75/11 Satin Satin is one of those fabrics that becomes the evil in the costume world. Satin shines on one side and is difficult to work with, but you'll find that you need it for a lot of pieces. Quote: Used for: Blouses, dresses, bridal gowns. Wash: Not needed Weight: Light to medium Needle: 70/10
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 8:43 am
Silk Silk is another fabric that as you become more and more into completion cosplay or into historical costuming, you'll be buying. Silk comes in many varieties and I'll be focusing on the most common types. Silk is also a pretty penny so it's not the cheapest. The varieties that silk come in include China Silk, Silk Dupioni, silk gazar, silk noil, silk organza, Sandwashed Silk, Silk Shantung, Thai silk, silk tussah, and silk tweed. The varieties you'll find you'll be using. Quote: Name: Silk Dupioni Use for: flat pants, jackets, blouses, fitted dresses, straight skits, and vest. Wash: Dry-Clean Weight: Medium Needle: 70/10 Quote: Name: Silk Organza Use: Blouse Wash: Yes Weight: Light Needle: 60/8 or 65/9 Taffeta Another fabric that you'll often use if you are going to historical costuming. Quote: Use: Skirts, dresses Wash: Not needed Weight: Light Needle: 70/10 Tulle and Net Tulle and Net is something that is another necessary evil fabric. You'll both love what it does, but hate having to sew with it. Quote: Use: Underlying over and under skirts. Wash: Nope Weight: Light Needle: 70/10
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:22 am
Upholstery Yes, I am saying that using fabric normally used to make furniture is going to be something you'll use for costume making. Down in our info box I'll have more details. Quote: Use: Furniture (props), corsets, historical clothing, vest, jackets. Wash: Yes, buy extra for shrink Weight: Heavy Needle: 90/14 or 100/16 Velvet Velvet is a soft fabric and does cost a pretty penny, but not hard to find for a decent price. Quote: Used for: Dresses, Cloaks/Capes, pants, skirts, vest, shirts Wash: Dry-cleaned, once garment is completed. Weight: Medium Needle: 70/10, 75/11 Vinyl Vinyl is also another fabric normally for furniture, however I find myself always having some around to do some type of project. Quote: Used for: Belts, fake-leather pieces in a costume Wash: None Weight: Medium Needles: 70/10 for thin vinyl, 40/16 for thicker
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:33 am
Wool Wool is another one that you see a lot of varieties in. This varieties include: Wool Boucle, Wool Challis, Wool Crepe, Wool Double Cloth, Wool Gauze, Wool Jersey, Wool Melton, and Woolens or Worsteds. Wool is a common fabric used in Historical costumes or for cold weather items. Quote: Wool Challis Used for: Skirts, dresses, Shirts, robes Weight: Medium Wash: Steam Iron Needle: 80/12 Quote: Wool Crepe Used for: pants, skirts, jackets, dresses Wash: Dry-Cleaner weight: medium Needle: 80/12 Quote: Wool Jersey Use: Tops, dresses, pants, skirts Wash: steam Weight: Medium Needle: 75/11 Quote: Woolens & Worsteds Used for: Jackets, skirts, dresses, pants Weight: Medium Wash: dry clean Needle: 80/12
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:41 am
Muslin Muslin is a type of fabric that is often used for making mock-ups of costumes and pieces. Muslin is cheaper than some fabrics, this allows a cheap option for mock-ups. Muslin, while cheap, is not a popular to use in costumes, do to the lack of ability to be able to be washed. Instead it is usually stored for similar products. Muslin is still sometime required for a costume piece and is usually for historical costumes.
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 11:55 am
Interfacing Interfacing is used to stiffen a part of the garment. You'll often find interfacing with jackets and collars. There are different types of interfacing and sometimes interfacing can be a fabric. You're sewing pattern will tell you more about which one to pick. Each interfacing will come with instructions. If you aren't getting enough interfacing to get all the instructions (it's wrapped around it), you can ask your local craft store to give you all of it. How to Use Interfacing
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 12:12 pm
Further Resources Fabric Savy by Sandra Betzina
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 4:16 pm
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:47 pm
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Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:56 pm
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