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Cryrin

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:06 pm


You are all too kind. smile Thank you!
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:54 pm


I had a question about your scallops, actually.
Do you use a partial lining on them, then flip it right side out, a full lining in the same manner, or do you just hem them under on themselves?

boconnotto


Cryrin

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:43 pm


boconnotto
I had a question about your scallops, actually.
Do you use a partial lining on them, then flip it right side out, a full lining in the same manner, or do you just hem them under on themselves?


On the high waisted skirt, I'm using a full lining, and on the pink skirt, a partial lining (as there will be ruffled eyelet peeking out under the scallops)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:44 pm


Which one do you feel works better? Or does it depend on the skirt itself? (:
And thanks for answering, I'm still learning how to get them even and straight and...keep failing on them. haha

boconnotto


Cryrin

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:49 pm


boconnotto
Which one do you feel works better? Or does it depend on the skirt itself? (:
And thanks for answering, I'm still learning how to get them even and straight and...keep failing on them. haha


I think that it really depends on the skirt itself. The highwaisted skirt will have a ruffle, as well, but it follows the line of the scallops and it has to be stitched over the main skirt portion (like so), whereas the pink skirt's ruffle is not attached to the scallops and is rather part of another lining. I'm much too lazy to hem scallops by hand-- any time I can avoid hemming a curve, I do. I also think that it creates a smoother and more polished appearance to clip the edges and hide it in a lining and then topstich it at the end, as opposed to trying to fit it all in a little hem.
Using either a full lining or a partial lining has its benefits, based on what you're trying to accomplish, and each has its downsides-- with a full lining, you have to be especially careful of making sure that your seam allowances are all the same, and with a partial lining, you have to deal with the line of stitching along the top of that lining that shows on the outer side of the garment-- not incredibly visible, but it is there (example, if you can spot it) (I'm hiding it by making the lining tall enough to meet the bottom row of lace. )
I'm in the process of doing the partial lining on the scallops for the pink skirt right now, actually, so if you'd like, I'd be happy to take pictures when I am finished with them smile
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:24 pm


Ohman. I'd love photos if you're able to do it. (:
I've wanted to do a scalloped hem for ages, but never seem to get it quite right. I always seem to mismeasure and so the skirt ends up "ballooning" awkwardly.

boconnotto


Cryrin

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:03 am


I work out all of my patterns first on tissue paper-- I can draw a perfect circle by hand, but I check over them with a compass to be certain.
This skirt will be made for a ~26in waist (I don't wear pink, so I'll be selling it once it's finished), gathered to 1/3 the original pattern size (each side is 40in wide including seam allowance)-- I allowed 5 scallops to front and 5 to back. Since it's gathered waist, I used a rectangle pattern and kept the scallops along a straight line on the bottom. Since I'm using tissue paper, it's sheer enough that I worked on the ground over our cutting mat grid to ensure everything was lined up exactly the same. When it came to making the partial lining, I simply traced the existing pattern for the scallops and width and then shortened the length to the desired amount.
I made sure to cut exactly along the pattern for both skirt fabric and partial lining, and I measured seam allowance before stitching for both to make sure everything was even.
Scalloped hems require a lot of detail and attention, but so long as you're really a**l about all of the detail, they come out nice enough.
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:34 am


I think the error I must be making is seam allowances. I generally draw my patterns out before cutting using newsprint (biggest sheets I can find where I am, everything else is superheavy, four dollars a sheet drawing paper). The bottoms always come out too tight on the skirts compared to the middle, if you know what I mean? They end up making a ballooned shape instead of an upside-down tea-cup or cupcake. I'll try adding a bit more for seam allowances on the scallops next time.

How much do you generally leave for your allowances on the scallops? Same as the rest of the skirt?
Also, where will you and how much do you think you'll be selling that skirt for? Was it a commission or just an "I wanna make a skirt...pink. Hm. Oh well! I can sell it!" type of thing?

Sorry for being so nosy, your skirts and jumpers are always just so cute! (:
I'm still in love with your underbust jumper from a while back.

boconnotto


Cryrin

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:11 pm


For the sake of keeping my numbers even, I keep a 1/2in seam allowance for everything, including the scallops. Once I know I have it right, I just keep eyeballing how much fabric is not under the sewing foot (on mine, it ends up sticking out about 1/8in) to make sure it stays about the same amount for the entire length of the seam.

I'm not entirely certain how much I'll sell it for, just yet. I've already posted the headdress that's finished to go with it, but I'm also planning on making a few other accessories (a different headdress, an alice bow or two, and possibly a beret), and including the buyer's choice of accessory in the price, then sell off the other accessories. Depending on time, fabric, and motivation, I may also make a bag to go with it.
Someone had requested a commission for a light pink OP from me earlier in the year and cut off all communication while I was finishing up on the pattern. Thank god I hadn't started actual construction. But is still left me with... 4 yards of fabric + lining in a color I almost never wear. For the sake of some extra cash (especially now that I'm going to China in March), I decided to dig out the fabric and throw together something at relatively simplistic to sell. So it will have a half elasticized waist, both for ease of sewing and to fit a larger variety of people, and the detail is in things like the lace and hem shape, as opposed to the copious amounts of pintucking and hand gathering that most of my personal projects have.
Including shipping and 1 matching hair accessory, I'm estimating around $60, in egl_comm_sales.
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:36 pm


Good to know and ... I may actually be interested in it when you put it up; especially since it'll have elastic. Your pieces are incredibly well constructed. (:

Thanks for all the advice, I'll let you know if it ends up working out!

boconnotto


Hotaru230

PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:53 am


I'm working on a flower patterned dress kinda like this one
User Image
and I added thick eyelet white cotton lace to the bottom of the skirt part and then did a fancy small diamond stitch over the first stitch, but somehow it got messed up where the 2 ends of the lace met. It would be too much of a pain to try to take it out and restitch it. what should I do? It's on one side of the dress. I'll try to get a pic of it up later. redface
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:07 pm


Just a glimpse at what I've been doing while I'm taking a break from the scallop-hemmed skirt. All of the scallops are clipped and I'm in the process of attempting to iron them so they can be topstitched.

User Image
Alternative Detail Shot01
Alternative Detail Shot02

This is the bottom ruffling work of a black x off white OP I've been working on for.... way too long?
(Black ruffle with off white lace ruffled on top of that, and the topmost black ruffle on top of both with decorative chinese braiding e_e). The lining is about 30% done, and the outside is finished except for the sleeves.
Skirt is gathered at the waist and the bodice has a layer of lightweight interfacing for shape/support and is darted in the front, with another layer of off white lace ruffled across the very top (front only), and the braiding running atop that just between the sleeves.
Intended specs include invisible side zipper, fully lined, fully serged, fully elasticized sleeves.

I'll probably just post a design sketch of it or more pictures later.

Cryrin


Cryrin

PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:31 pm


User Image - Blocked by "Display Image" Settings. Click to show.

Design sketch for the above detail picture. smile
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:24 am


Oh Cryrin that dress is lovely! heart

Vivienne Valentine

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Cryrin

PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:23 pm


Thank you!
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How To Make Anything Lolita

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